2009 Kühling-Gillot Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs
Wein-plus: 95/100Pts
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Professional reviews:
Wein-plus (Marcus Hofschuster): „Packender, sehr tiefer, völlig reintöniger, dabei komplexer Duft nach Zitrusfrücten und Steinobst mit Aromen teils kandierter Kräuter und sehr viel kühler, geschliffen wirkender Mineralik. Dicht, schmelzig und kraftvoll im Mund, sehr klare, etwas warm wirkende, reife Frucht mit hochfeiner Säure, tief und nachhaltig am Gaumen, kandiert-kräuterige Würze und sehr präsente Mineralik, zeigt eindeutig seine Herkunft, beste Balance, großeTiefe, lang.“ 95/100Pts
International Wine Cellar: "By Joel B. Payne Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 11
Seductive aromas of passion fruit, smoked pine nuts and sweet lime. Intense, full-bodied nectarine fruit dances over the palate, giving way to a salty minerality that currently masks the wine's depth. Well balanced and very long, this is one of the finest dry rieslings from Rheinhessen. 92 points"
Gault Millau: 92/100
Gerhard Eichelmann: 90/100
Falstaff: 91/100
Jancis Robinson: „Quite feral on the nose -no added yeasts here surely! Very pungent and mineral. You could really lose yourself in this bouquet already.“ 17/20
Wine Advocate: "Review by David Schildknecht Wine Advocate # 193 (Feb 2011) Rating: 90 Drink 2011 - 2017
The smoky cast of Kuhling-Gillot’s 2009 Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewachs is more of the savory, saliva-inducing smoked meat sort than of the more aggressive and acerbic wood smoke variety approached by the corresponding bottlings from Oelberg and Rothenberg. Along with peach, almond and tangerine or kumquat that – like the evocation of smoked meat – are typical of this site, come attractive floral adjuncts. Drastic dryness and crushed stone suggestions render the pithy finish here borderline austere despite its sheer persistence, but the wine’s textural richness and complexity more than make up for any such hindrances, resulting in a Riesling that should merit following for at least the next 5-6 years.
Like her husband Oliver Spanier (of Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier), Carolin Gillot – for more about whose estate see in particular my reports in issues 185 and 187 – seems disinclined to tolerates residual sugar in her wines. Whether or not it is for that reason that they elected not to bottle the 28 gram residual sugar successor to the superb Kuhling-Gillot 2008 Gewurztraminer feinherb, I do wish I’d had chance to satisfy my curiosity by sampling that wine from cask. (I missed out also on sampling this year’s Kuhling-Gillot Pinot Gris from bottle.)"